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POLYP
MAYONNAISE
Ingredients:
2
Kg ‘Veraci’ Polyp
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Anchovy
fillets
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Pinch
of pepper
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English
mustard as required
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Ample
chopped parsley
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A
spoonful of pickled gherkins
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Extra-virgin
olive oil as required
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Salt as required
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Vinegar
as required
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Dry White Wine approx. half a glass
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Cauliflower
tips
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Salt
as required
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Black
olives from Gaeta
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Mayonnaise
as required
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Preparation
This
is a typical Neapolitan dish and, as required with Amalfi
cooking, it is a course, tasty sailor’s dish.
It
requires 2 Kg of rock polyp, which in Naples is known as
‘Polipi Veraci’ or ‘True Polyp’. It is easily
recognisable, as it has two rows of suckers along the
tentacles, instead of only one. After having cleaned the polyp
well and removed the skin, continue cleaning them until they
are bright white.
Boil
a large saucepan of water, then add the salt and the polyp,
ensuring that this is well covered by the water. Simmer until
fully cooked.
Once cooked, allow the polyp to cool in the same water. When
it is cold, remove and cut into pieces each about two or three
centimetres long. Season with pepper, plenty of parsley, oil,
vinegar and a fair amount of dense mayonnaise.
In
the meantime, boil a cauliflower, dividing it into many small
heads. When it is cooked, season as above (in the same way as
for the polyp).
The
presentation should be as follows. Place half the cauliflower
onto a plate, and onto this layer you should position the
polyp, here and there adding the Gaeta black olives which you
have previously stoned. Cover this with the other half of the
cauliflower, giving the dish the form of a dome. Cover all
this with the mayonnaise and decorate with a crown of black
olives that should be laid out at the base of the dome, and a
few fillets of anchovy placed on the actual dome.
The
preparation of the Mayonnaise requires two egg yolks and, as
it should be a fairly spicy dish, you should add English
mustard, which has to be melted in a minimal amount of water,
and a fair amount of chopped, pickled gherkins.
The Dish
This
should certainly be considered a ‘classy’ sailor’s dish,
a second course that is ‘rich’ with flavours, but that
have been mixed so wisely that they will be appreciated even
by the most delicate of palates and even by those who do not
like very strong flavours.
The
spicy flavour of the anchovy fillets, the English mustard and
the pickled gherkins tends to be toned down by the cauliflower.
The choice of polyp is very important for the success of this
dish. It must be the so-called ‘Polipi Veraci’.
The Wine
This
is a unique dish for many reasons. It should be considered a
‘complex’ dish, with rich flavours that tend to be mostly
spicy and tart. For this reason, it certainly requires a young
white wine with a marked acidic presence that will combine
perfectly with the acidulous taste of the mayonnaise, anchovy,
mustard and gherkins.
It cannot be too alcoholic because it must not contrast a
strong structure, but it must have a certain aromatic presence,
a sufficiently persistent flavour and, above all, it must be
dry. A slightly bitter presence would work well with the
lasting taste of the cauliflower.
It
is certainly not easy to accompany this dish.
Suggested
wines
Valle
d’Aosta: Nus Pinot Grigio
Lombardy: Capriano del Colle – Trebbiano – Tocai di
San Martino della Battaglia
Trentino: Trentino Mullert-Thurgau – Trentino Nosiola
– Trentino Riesling Italico – Trentino Riesling Renano –
Valle Inarco – Pinot Grigio (Rulander)
Veneto: Colli Euganei secco superiore
Friuli: Grave del Friuli Riesling renano – Isonzo del
Friuli Pinot Grigio
Tuscany: Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Marches: Falerio dei Colli Ascolani – Verdicchio dei
Casteli di Jesi – Verdicchio di Matelica
Campania: white Vesuvio
Apulia: white Castel del Monte
Sicily: Alcamo or white d’Alcamo – white Etna –
Faro
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